Drip irrigation for garden beds and planters
Drip irrigation delivers water directly to the root zone through emitters or inline drip tubing at low pressure. It wastes far less water to wind and evaporation than spray heads, keeps foliage dry, and is the right choice for garden beds, shrubs, hedges and planters.
Drip vs spray heads
Spray and rotor heads are built for lawns. Beds, narrow strips and plantings do better on drip.
- Drip: beds, shrubs, hedges, trees, vegetable gardens, containers
- Spray: small lawn areas and narrow turf strips
- Rotors: larger open lawns
How a drip zone is built
A drip zone runs on its own valve because it needs lower pressure and longer run times than lawn zones.
- Zone valve from the main manifold
- Filter to keep emitters from clogging
- Pressure regulator (drip typically runs around 20–30 psi)
- Inline drip tubing or point emitters under mulch
- Flush cap at the end of each run for maintenance
Adding drip to an existing system
If your controller has a spare station, a drip zone can often be added with a new valve at the manifold. If not, the controller may need upgrading. Converting a spray zone in a bed to drip is also common.
Winterizing drip
Drip lines are blown out at low pressure with the rest of the system and flushed in spring.
Common questions
- Can drip and sprinklers be on the same zone?
- No. They run at different pressures and flow rates, so drip gets its own zone valve.
- How long should drip run?
- Longer than spray — often 30 to 60 minutes, fewer times a week — adjusted for soil and plant type.
- Does drip work in clay soil?
- Yes. Clay absorbs slowly, which suits drip's low application rate better than spray.
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